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You can have fish prepared the Michael Psilakis way, or if you’re not one to put on mushroom-confit airs, you can opt to have your tuna, swordfish, salmon, prawn, bass, or octopus simply grilled over an open flame and dressed with lemon and olive oil. Though some dishes (for instance, the sheep's-milk dumplings with sea-urchin funduta or the scallop crudo with pickled beet and bone marrow) must be eaten as is. The menu is marked up with wine, beer, and even tequila suggestions, and to further encourage pairing, wines come in three-ounce, six-ounce, and half- and full-bottle pours. This being a Psilakis joint, there are also eleven beers on tap and twenty by the bottle. — Daniel Maurer