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From the window you'll see succulent cuts of fish arrayed like a still life among seaweed and ice, and a raw bar chef energetically shucking oysters. Inside are all the trappings of a seaside shack, with industrial-sized containers of Old Bay and sea salt topping the marble tables. Dockside photos, buoys, and a lobster trap enlivened with Christmas lights are among the nautical ephemera covering the walls. Despite its menu of New England standbys- cod, clam chowder, steamers, and lobsters. Fish pulses to a Southern beat. Cheese grits, collard greens, and hush puppies accompany catfish, red snapper, and wild salmon. Southern cooking skills are evident in the crispy batter of the fried oysters, which are topped with an unorthodox clump of Japanese-style seaweed salad- an ideal, briny complement for the meat. Oysters also appear in the decadent angels on horseback appetizers- broiled oysters skewered with bacon, cocktail sauce, and dollops of horseradish. The seared Chilean sea bass, exceptionally popular, is served seared, with the flaky meat left plump and juicy, or stewed in white wine, tomato, and onion. That the fish is so fresh here is something less than a coincidence, given that owner Edward Taylor also owns one of the city's top seafood distributors. — Ethan Wolff

Retail sales of fresh seafood are available, including mussels, catfish, lobster, and cod by the pound.

Note
Get six blue point oysters plus a glass of Chardonnay, Merlot or PBR for $8.

New England clam chowder bowl, $8; fried oysters, $12; Chilean sea bass, $24