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There’s only one table at this family-owned takeout joint, and that’s the one sitting next to the fogged-up window looking onto Second Avenue. On the sill, plastic lilies sprout from a wine cooler, while two Christmas ornaments dangle from a string of holiday lights year-round. Above the cash register are pictures of almost twenty dishes. Most meals favor Szechuan and Hunan spicing, such as kung pao chicken and the hot and spicy shredded-beef combo plate, but Five Luck also features some Cantonese dishes, the best of which is the roast-chicken lo mein. Whichever region you favor, you’re wise to start off with an order of Five Luck's velvety steamed dumplings. — Nicole C. Israel

Steamed dumplings, $4.50; chicken with broccoli, $5