6 at Bleecker St.; B, D, F, M at Broadway-Lafayette St.
American Express, MasterCard, Visa
Closed for renovations.
Every neighborhood needs a place with a good bar, a serious kitchen, and zero pretensions. NoHo has one in this Med-American restaurant, where a split log running down the center of the dining room conveys a babbling brook. Zen though that may sound, chef Marc Meyer's hearty cooking is more boldly passionate than coolly contemplative. Many dishes show enough spikiness to make you look down and go "hmmmm" before you go back to the conversation.Brunch
Sat.—Sun., 11 a.m.—3 p.m.Recommended Dishes
Buttermilk-marinated free range chicken, $23; char-grilled burger, $18