Sun, 5:30pm-10pm; Mon-Thu, 5:30pm-11pm; Fri-Sat, 5:30pm-11:30pm
4, 5, 6 at 86th St.
American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Bobby and Laura Shapiro run two restaurants on Canada’s Prince Edward Island, and they've imported one of them to New York. Flex Mussels occupies the Upper East Side space that formerly housed Zócalo, which has been furnished with artwork from P.E.I., plus an oyster bar manned by John Bil, three-time Canadian oyster-shucking champion. Chef François de Mélogue, a Robuchon alum, handles the rest of the seafood-centric menu, which spotlights P.E.I. mussels cooked in 23 sauces, for $16 to $18 a pound. Variations include the Funghi (wild mushrooms, double smoked bacon, garlic, and cream), the Mexican (chipotle adobo, chorizo, and calamari), and the San Danielle (with prosciutto). The “not mussels” menu section is rounded out with such fish-shack archetypes as a lobster roll, a lobster dinner (including grilled corn, potato salad, and hot apple pie), and, for the stray landlubber, a farmer's chicken roasted and braised with garlic confit.
Parma mussels, $22.50; Thai mussels, $21.50; whoopie pie, $9.50