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Since Florent rarely closes for longer than it takes the staff to change clothes and fix their makeup, there's almost no excuse for winding up in the Empire Diner. For almost two decades, in a space as disarmingly charming as its owner, Florent has been the original meat-market destination, the archetypal version of a Les Halles coffee shop that doesn't exist anywhere in France. At any time, fragrant mussels, dense boudin noir, or a free-range chicken is available for not much more than you'd pay for grilled cheese in a greasy spoon. What's more, there's no drunk in the next booth singing along with Sinatra's "Come Fly With Me." Added bonus: Florent Morellet is the patron saint of the meatpacking district. His diligence in fighting for the integrity of this neighborhood, people with HIV/aids, the High Line, the right to die, and gay rights, among other causes, is humbling. And his annual Bastille Day party is more fun than anything they throw in Paris. Support his restaurant, because most likely he supports you and people you love. — Hal Rubenstein

Reservations accepted 9 a.m.—11 p.m., except for brunch

Free-range chicken, $16.50

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