Mon-Fri, 5pm-4am; Sat-Sun, noon-4am
G, L at Metropolitan Ave.-Lorimer St.
American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Broadway to Skillman Ave., Bushwick Ave. to Driggs Ave.
Forcella looks like a typical midrange pie-house: photos of old-world Italian celebrities dot the walls and the ceramic oven looms at the kitchen’s nerve center. Openers like a classic burrata, an arancino, and an amalfi salad can't help but pale compared to the pizzas: Below the antipasti and a modest grouping of red and white pies lies a “pizza fritte,” whose light frying/baking process imbues its final product with a flavor unlike that of any comparable Neapolitan. The wood-burned pie's thin, barely-there crust surrounds a gummy center closer to a pastry complete with its own natural sweetness. Fritte varieties include a basic cheese-and-sauce Montanara, or stuffed, models that resemble lumpy calzones filled with strips of sopressata, escarole, and other goodies. The fried brand sets Forcella apart, but its pies’ unusual crusts inevitably overwhelm the ingredients within. Pizzaphile opinions will almost certainly be split on the subject.Featured In