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The preparation of fish and seafood at Francisco's is based heavily on Basque cooking, which has its center in San Sebastian, a glittering curve of coast in northern Spain. Seafood is done simply, without distracting sauces or sides. That, plus big lobsters at medium prices have kept Francisco's business broiling and steaming since 1979. Most shellfish dishes come in a semi-natural state, sauced in buttery garlic, which makes Sangria a good chaser. Spain's most famous dish, paella, is here represented by a strictly seafood version with clams, mussels, shrimp, and lobster, and the ever-popular Paella Valenciana, regarded by Spaniards as the original—with chicken and chorizo. A handful of veal, pork, and chicken dishes, plus plenty of more chorizo, give another nod to Spanish regional cooking. The Spanish-mountain-village interior has white stucco walls with exposed brick, and timber support columns. Gargantuan lobster pinchers dangle from the ceiling like stalactites. Cracking claws and slurping oysters are loud, plastic bib-wearing groups from the suburbs, tourists, pre- and post-theatre goers—and sheepish locals. — Alison Ogden

Reservations are only accepted for parties of six or more.

Seafood paella, $19.95; Alaskan king crab legs, $34.95; zarzuela de mariscos Catalana, $30.95; lobster tail, $37.95