Freek’s Mill

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82 Good

A trendy neighborhood spot with above-par seasonal cooking and one of Brooklyn’s most eclectic wine lists.

285 Nevins St., Brooklyn, NY, 11217

718-852-3000

http://freeksmill.com/

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The lowdown

Though the standard operating procedure might seem familiar — farm-to-table, small plates, gingham-shirt uniforms — the seasonal American menu is filled with gems, most notably the roasted cauliflower sweetened with sunchokes and golden raisins and the savory dry-aged duck with beautifully crisp skin. And for something entirely different, the thoughtful, targeted wine list is built around Loire Chenin Blancs, cru Beaujolais, and Georgian qvevri wine — though you might want to start your meal with one of the better versions of the tequila-and-grapefruit-based Paloma cocktail we’ve come across. While one of the dining room’s selling points is the very un–New Yorky amount of space you’ll have at a table, don’t neglect the chef’s counter in the rear of the restaurant, where on a cold night you can warm up from the heat lapping off the wood-burning oven while you watch your food being prepared. It’s an especially cozy place to enjoy your dinner.

What you need to know

Recommended DishesBBQ kohlrabi; dry-aged duck.

DrinksFull Bar

Noise LevelCivilized