G at Nassau Ave.; L at Bedford Ave.
$45 per tasting
American Express, MasterCard, Visa
This venue is closed.
This Nordic pop-up operates Monday through Wednesday nights in Williamsburg’s Kinfolk Studios (the rest of the week the space is occupied by ramen specialist Yuji) and it’s no wonder it’s booked solid for months when a five-course prix fixe goes for $45. The fried sweetbreads that started the meal on a recent visit were a bonus amuse bouche. The menu changes frequently, but that day shrimp in a creamy oyster-redolent sauce followed, then scallops with cabbage and seaweed and two meat courses: pork belly and a garlic and mustard-dotted beef. Despite the garage-like surroundings, everything is elegantly plated and somehow the waitstaff even manages to change the flatware between courses. Mostly the food was a pleasing blur of small hunks of protein in creamy sauces, with a few vegetal garnishes here and there. If it ran together slightly, no one was complaining—not when such an elegant, and fun, dining experience is such a bargain.