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The Tour de France restaurant group (L’Express, Marseille, Nice Matin) has spread a web of cookie-cutter French bistros across Manhattan; like its siblings, the 24/7 French Roast is a formulaic factory, adorned with all the predictable trappings: marble tabletops, black and white checkered floors, red leather chairs, and vintage posters. Bistro standards like crispy duck confit, mussels Provençales, and steak frites are passable. Broccoli gratin, on the other hand, unapologetically dosed with bubbling béchamel sauce and Gruyère cheese, shines. The restaurant’s overnight menu features salads, sandwiches, pâté, and a section of variations on the Croque Monsieur, one of which is certain to fulfill any late-night cravings. And the turnover during weekend brunch is a site to behold. Village masses cram the dining room and sidewalk tables for eggs benedict, croissants, and a healthy side of people watching. — Tim O’Keefe

French Roast has a private party space available for groups of up to fifteen people.

Broccoli gratin, $8.75; mango chutney pork chop, $16.50