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Frenchette

Critic's Pick Critics' Pick

241 W. Broadway, New York, NY 10013 40.719607 -74.005634
nr. Walker St.  See Map | Subway Directions Hopstop Popup
212-334-3883 Send to Phone

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  • Cuisine: Bistro, French
  • Price Range: $$$

    Key to Prices and ratings

    Upscale
    • Almost Perfect
    • Exceptional
    • Generally Excellent
    • Very Good
    • Good
    Cheap Eats
    • Best in Category
    • Excellent
    • Delicious
    • Very Good
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    • Expensive
    • Moderate
    • Cheap
  • Critics' Rating: ***

    Key to Prices and ratings

    Upscale
    • Almost Perfect
    • Exceptional
    • Generally Excellent
    • Very Good
    • Good
    Cheap Eats
    • Best in Category
    • Excellent
    • Delicious
    • Very Good
    • Noteworthy
    • Very Expensive
    • Expensive
    • Moderate
    • Cheap
  • Reader Rating: Write a Review

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Official Website

frenchettenyc.com

Hours

Daily, 5:30pm-11pm

Nearby Subway Stops

1 at Franklin St.; 6, J, N, Q, R, Z to Canal St.

Prices

$21-$48

Payment Methods

American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa

Special Features

  • Dine at the Bar
  • Good for Groups
  • Great Desserts
  • Hot Spot
  • Notable Chef
  • Romantic
  • Design Standout
  • Special Occasion
  • Reservations Not Required
  • Online Reservation

Alcohol

  • Full Bar

Reservations

Recommended

Profile

A well-roasted chicken is the dish grizzled dining veterans often cite as the sign of a truly professional kitchen, but at Riad Nasr and Lee Hanson’s Frenchette it’s that more elemental poultry product, the egg, that announces the arrival of an excellent restaurant. Potatoes figure prominently in any tortilla española, but the little wedge of eggy goodness that appeared early in our meal was cool (instead of too hot or too cold) and loosely textured (instead of too hard or too soft) and dressed on top with garlic aïoli and a spoonful of smoked trout roe. It was followed shortly by more eggs, this time scrambled to buttery smoothness in the traditional brouillade style, and crowned with escargot sautéed in garlic butter, a concept that apparently isn’t common in France but which I heartily endorse. Nasr and Hanson are old hands at this earthy, deceptively intricate brand of French cooking, of course, having run the kitchens at the two most famous restaurants in Keith McNally’s brasserie empire, Balthazar and Minetta Tavern. Although the sleek, wood-trimmed space has a polished, no-expense-spared sheen to it, you can feel the absence of McNally’s famous theatrical touch. The lighting could be mellower and a little less flat; except for a mirror or two, the wall décor is “cafeteria style" and the low ceilings and abundance of hard, woody surfaces make it feel, on a crowded evening (which is every evening), like you’re dining inside a specially constructed noise box. But this is a chefs’ operation, not a crowd-pleasing, front-of-the-house one, and the menu at Frenchette is filled with carefully rendered dishes drawn from the old French canon, which a practical, bottom-line restaurateur might consider too quirky, expensive, or laborious for a more standard brasserie.

Ideal Meal

Tortilla española, brouillade and/or soupe de poisson, roast chicken, duck-frites and/or côte de boeuf, apple tart.

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