Sun-Mon and Wed-Thu, 11am-10pm; Fri-Sat, 11am-11pm; Tue, closed
L at DeKalb Ave.; F, G at 15th St.-Prospect Park
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Dan Ross-Leutwyler’s (Roberta's, Fatty ‘Cue, Bellwether) latest endeavor is a casual, narrow luncheonette in Bushwick. The subdued colors are accented by red plastic chairs reminiscent of grade school, a high bookshelf lined with cookbooks, and a hanging hornet’s nest in the window. Don’t be misled by the name; Dan’s grandfather, Fritz, was a Swiss restaurateur, but Fritzl’s menu is mostly American, save for some Mexican-influenced snacks, like the baja shrimp cocktail tostada, salsa-brined chicken wings, and blood sausage tamale. Skip the fried chicken-sandwich and opt instead for his prized burger, a salty mix of beef cheek and chuck meat. Beyond the sandwiches, Fritzl’s menu offers simple pastas, including tasty ricotta dumplings topped with flavorful shredded peekytoe crab. The pork ribs, though nicely seasoned, are more bone than meat. If you recognize the banana cream pie, that’s because it’s delivered daily from Pies-n-Thighs, where Ross-Leutwyler’s wife, Carolyn Bane, is a chef and co-owner.
Hamburger, $8; chicken wings, $6