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Located midway along the stretch of noodle shops and dim sum palaces that dot Eighth Avenue, Fung Sing welcomes large families and small groups to its big round tables topped with pink tablecloths. The inexpensive, primarily seafood menu of Chinese dishes is dependant on what’s swimming in the tanks up front, then prepared in sauces that are refreshingly light. The Tai Pan Chow Mei Fun offers a broad sampling, holding a vibrant mixture of sauteed shrimp, scallops, squid, straw mushrooms, and thin, slightly crisp mei fun noodles. Duck and pork are the house’s other mainstays, cooked to a savory juiciness. Though several items are marked “hot and spicy,” even they tend to be on the mild side, unless otherwise requested. — Susan Chenelle

For delivery, takeout or a quick bite, Fung Sing Noodle Shop offers a similar menu next door.

Tai pan chow mei fun, $10.95; jumbo shrimp with broccoli, $12.95