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This Brooklyn offshoot of a Staten Island hotspot serves up innovative Japanese cuisine in a plush setting. The neon lights by the entrance, on an otherwise tame stretch of Fourth Avenue, belie the eatery’s sleek, sexy interior, with dim lighting, ornate ceilings, a sweeping bar, chain curtains, and booth seating. The food fits the above-average atmosphere. Especially delicious combinations: Crispy calamari maki rolls with mango, and a thick and savory mushroom risotto made with black rice. Tamer Japanese favorites are also offered; shrimp shumai and a seaweed salad large enough for two are solid bets. An eccentric drink menu draws a young crowd to a packed front bar on weekends to flirt over techno and pop tunes. — Jill Weiskopf

Shrimp shumai, $6; mushroom black risotto, $8