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Reminiscent of nearby Sea Thai Bistro, Fushimi’s third location (it’s also in Bay Ridge and Staten Island) feels like a slice of the meatpacking district in Williamsburg. There’s red and purple lighting, club beats, and a bridge-crossing clientele. Past the high-ceilinged bar and floating flat-screens, the dining room offers long, group tables or more secluded booths, all under large bamboo shoots, giant suspended silver orbs, and lights dangling in fish nets. Limited sushi bar seating lies next to a tunnel of blue rings leading to the ultra-modern washrooms. The flashy décor seems to be the focus at Fushimi, as the food proves lacking. Sashimi arrives perched on a bowl of rice noodles, lit from beneath. Though cuts are generous, the sushi is nearly tasteless. Signature rolls fare slightly better, with interesting combinations like roasted sea bass and pickled ginger topped with lobster (the Williamsburg roll); or tempura king crab and avocado with spicy tuna and yellowtail on top (the Fushimi King roll). Even the filet mignon needed more seasoning, paired with a viscous truffled teriyaki sauce that had no truffle flavor.  — Daniel Benjamin

Sesame tuna steak, $26; dancing dragon (special roll), $15; Staten Island rainbow (special roll), $14; eel cake (special roll), $15