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Mild, medium, or spicy is the only decision youÂ’ll need to make at this busy but serene Indian vegetarian spot on a grey lower Broadway block. With Gujarati thali dinners a specialty, dinner here is prix-fixe only, and – at $25.95 for three all-you-can-eat, multifarious courses – a deal that packs the place from its first seating. Deft seasonal offerings might include chole, a spicy chickpea dish, or the yogurt soup called kadhi, but the kitchen can get uneven, turning out bland samosas and watery dal. Since the food is prepared to order, the wait between courses can stretch. YouÂ’ll have plenty of time to contemplate the giant Hindi characters for “Om” on one red wall, or the more earthly topless dancer hand-painted on your table. A narrow back staircase ascends to a cavelike private dining room carved out of fake grey “rock.” And a note for fans of Vatan, the beloved Murray Hill veg spot now closed for renovations: Gaam and Vatan share an owner. — Michael Kaminer

Toor dal; chole; batakanu sak