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When the first incarnation of Gabriela's debuted in 1995 on 93rd and Amsterdam, it was an oasis of authentic Mexican food in an Upper West Side flush with combo-plate menus. Backed by Arthur Cutler, the late mastermind behind Carmine’s, Ollie’s, and Virgil's, Gabriela Hernandez turned out shining versions of traditional dishes like tongue tacos and pozole. Gabriela’s Version 2.0, one avenue over, is clearly no family enterprise. From the generically tasteful Southwestern-ish décor (folkloric doodads, putty-colored walls, subdued lighting) to trendy Tex-Mex ingredients like salmon and portobello mushrooms, it feels market-researched. Still, there's something likable about the sprawling place. A well-stocked tequila bar and an attractive sidewalk patio contribute to a party-town sensibility. Though sauces seem toned down, familiar dishes are done competently and the guacamole is far better than adequate. Simply cooked meats like Yucatan-style rotisserie chicken are strong; the ribs included with the mixed grill are tender faux barbecue, tasty if a bit sweet. The caramel-drizzled tres-leches cake is extremely sweet as well but also extremely delicious. — Steven Stern

The bar stays open until 1 a.m. Fridays and Saturdays.

Guacamole, $10.50; pollo Yucateco, $16-$19.95; parillada mixta, $22.50; pastel de tres leches, $7.50