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“Do you live in the neighborhood?” is the first thing the super-friendly waitress at Gaetana’s asks, even before handing out menus or taking drink orders. It’s a fair question, because if you don’t, you’re not likely to know about this unassuming Italian spot. With a dim interior, beat-up tile floor, and flat-screen TVs over the bar—separated only by a long counter from the dining area—the space is scruffy, if charmingly so, like it’s been around for decades. (It hasn’t.) There are many kinds of chicken, including marsala, Parmigiana and Milanese, on the menu, Sinatra on the stereo, and a brick oven visible in the kitchen. There’s no shame in being a red sauce joint here. Accordingly, the ravioli is toothsome, the pizza cheesy, and the wine selection decent and cheap. If you lived nearby, you’d be a regular by now, as much for the unpretentious vibe as for the food. If you don’t—but you’re in the neighborhood—you could do worse than become a paisano. — Melena Ryzik

Sun.—Wed., 4 p.m.—11 p.m.; Thu.—Sat., 4 p.m.—midnight

Cheese ravioli, $14.95; pizza, $14.25-$17.25