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Those seeking authentic, 24/7 Korean carousing need go no farther than Gahm Mi Oak, a 32nd Street standby that attracts young Asians and intrepid Westerners. It specializes in delicacies that pair well with beer and soju. Begin your bout with Sul Long Tang, a luxurious, cloud-white broth of ox bones boiled for 12 hours and topped with ribbons of beef brisket, rice, and rice noodles. (Folklore says it prevents hangovers.) Scallions, sea salt and pepper give it some zip. Once fortified, be bold and order yook hwe, a dish of raw beef and juicy Asian pear matchsticks. Control freaks should consider modum bossam, a plate of briny raw oysters, cooked pork belly slices, and radish kimchi that you self-assemble in pickled cabbage leaves. For the truly adventurous is modum soon dae, a massive platter of steamed and slivered pig's feet, ears, liver and stomach, as well as an imposing pork sausage made with sweet potato noodles and sweet rice that's redolent of onions, garlic, and scallions. Meeker types can stick with soo yook, steamed slices of beef brisket and beef tongue with shredded scallions dressed in toasted sesame oil. — Michael Anstendig

Sul long tang, $15.95; yook hwe, $28.95