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The young owners of Galanga apprenticed at Wondee Siam, a Hell’s Kitchen hole-in-the-wall with a cult following. The training paid off, especially in Thai standards like refreshing and remarkably fragrant crispy duck salad; larb gai, minced chicken redolent of mint and lime and dotted with toasted ground sticky rice; and the Chiang Mai curry noodles, a soothing chili-spiked broth loaded with pungent pickled cabbage and strewn with crispy fried shallots. And the stylish space, with its grass-guttered concrete bar and bright-red back wall, proves that in some departments the student can surpass the master. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Crispy duck salad, $8