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This snug Theater District wine bar from the restaurant group behind such dependable Italians as Puttanesca and Il Bastardo transcends the typical crostini, salumi, and cheese. Sturdy wood-shutter tables, straw-seated chairs, and beamed walls anchor the one-room space, which also boasts a spot for communal dining. The expert kitchen finesses Italian comfort classics like succulent meatballs in white wine and a bountiful fritti of calamari, zucchini and shrimp with just the right amount of batter, salt and oil. Meze maniche—literally “short sleeves”—are wee rigatoni in a bright tomato sauce with buffalo mozzarella and prosciutto, while tender, braised short ribs dress incredibly light gnocchi. Desserts are just as delicious: A strawberry-spin on “tiramisu” sneaks fresh berries between fluffy layers of mascarpone cream and ladyfinger crumble. A list of 150 wines keeps theater-goers and post-work locals busy at the white stone bar, but with satisfying portions averaging $12, the food here is one of the area's best deals since TKTS. — Kathleen Squires

Meatballs in white wine, $8; mezze maniche $10; short ribs with gnocchi, $15; strawberry tiramisu, $7