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Gandhi is a Curry Row anchor, consistently crowded with fans who seem willing to overlook the uneven menu. Open since 1984, the restaurant’s interior remains handsome—red walls adorned with lotus flowers, curved metal samovars resting on shelves, green and red lighting—but menus are stained with years of grease, and the lack of ventilation can lead to an overly warm dining room. While the sauce in the Chicken Tikka Musallam dish is properly rich and sweet, with tomato-accented cream, plump golden raisins, and sliced almonds, it coats tough, chewy pieces of boneless chicken. Entrees ordered from the tandoori oven are similarly fossilized, from unyielding chunks of lamb to dried-out salmon and beef kebab. But samosas are perfectly fried, mulligatawny soup is properly tangy, and poori breads are delicately puffed. — Laurel Fantauzzo

All meats served at Gandhi are certified Halal.

Mulligatawny soup, $2.95; samosa, $2.95; poori, $3.95