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There are plenty of options for excellent South American cuisine on this stretch of First Avenue, but Gauchas is the only one specializing in empanadas and red meat. Inside, the space is more industrial than rustic; exposed brick is matched with a vintage steel fire-door and polished aluminum shelves that host bottles of Argentine wine. Low prices and a familial atmosphere attract all types, from families with children early in the evening to young couples later in the night. Empanadas in pastry are a popular starter; served in eight flavors, inlcluding the tempting Gaucha Picante and Mexicana varieties. The former is a spicy mix of buttery sliced beef with a slow but persistent burn, the latter a dense combo of chopped chicken breast bound with a creamy, bitter-chocolate mole sauce. Steak options can be excellent, though dubious cuts of meat make the menu inconsistent. Skirt steak is thin, but expectedly tender and juicy; short ribs, however, prove they’re a dish best served braised—seared on the grill, they arrive fatty and tough. — Benjamin Kneen

Gaucha picante, $3; Mexicana, $3; Entrana skirt steak, $19