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In 1985, Geido opened on a bleak stretch of Flatbush Avenue, but the gamble paid off and on most nights now there’s a wait to get into the local sushi institution. One wall of the otherwise stark space is drawn floor-to-ceiling with colorful fish cartoons and caricatures of the staff—all contributions from the regulars. The most coveted seats in the house are at the sushi bar, where diners can view the handiwork of owner Osamu Koyama, who assembles his pieces and rolls with quick fluidity and dramatic flourish. Though the day's catches are rarely unusual, Koyama’s success lies in his assuredly fresh fish, served in large portions at reasonable rates (think Blue Ribbon quality at "blue plate" prices). The rolls have an interesting mix of textures, a standout being the Sumo Maki, with tuna, salmon, fish roe, crab, avocado, egg, asparagus and cucumber. The kitchen also offers savory Japanese combinations, such as the Yokubari Box, which holds shrimp tempura, fish teriyaki and fried chicken, and the seafood sukiyaki, an aromatic casserole of shrimp, crab, scallops, salmon and vegetables drenched in ponzu sauce. — T Sahara Meer

Sumo Maki (tuna, salmon, fish roe, avocado, egg, asparagus, cucumber), $8; Dynamite Roll (tuna, eel, avocado, ginger flakes, crab), $8.75; Geido Sushi Special for two; $36