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Faruk Miah opened the tiny Indian restaurant Ghandi Cafe in 1999. Considering the eternal tourist trade on this charmless strip of Bleecker Street, Ghandi’s familiar fare is much better than it needs to be; even New Yorkers could eat here without feeling taken. Standards like vindaloo and balti gosht come out colorful, hot, and pungent. Spiky accents of turmeric, coriander, and lemon punctuate sizzling tikka and moist tandoori staples. Unfortunately, a packed, boxcar-like space means constant elbowing and chair-shifting; scorching platters en route whiz uncomfortably close to diners’ heads. Watch out! But indulgent service compensates, as do thoughtful touches like the complimentary dessert of orange rice pudding and milky Indian tea. The surreal décor of orchid-shaped light sconces, red velvet wallpaper, faded travel posters, and Christmas tree lights has a well-worn, familiar appeal as well. — Michael Kaminer

Chana masalla, $8.95; chicken balti gosht, $11.95; lamb tikka, $10.50