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At Gilt, the highbrow restaurant in the Villard Mansions, another accomplished, well-traveled sideman, Christopher Lee, has recently replaced a well-known diva in the kitchen, with similarly edifying results. Lee, who has worked with Daniel and Jean-Georges, among others, takes over for Paul Liebrandt, a temperamental English auteur known for his experimental emulsions and foams. I've always admired Liebrandt's cooking, but under Lee, the kitchen has a more settled, steady feel. Like his predecessor, the young chef has a fondness for esoteric ingredients, but tends to use them in a more restrained way.
— Adam Platt

Three-course dinner, $85; five-course dinner, $110

Pre-Theater Dinner
Tue.—Sat., 5:30 p.m.—6 p.m.; three-course dinner, $55

Kitchen Hours
Tue.—Thu., 5:30 p.m.—9:45 p.m.; Fri.—Sat., 5:30 p.m.—10:15 p.m.; Mon.—Sun., closed

Related Stories

New York Magazine Reviews

• Adam Platt's Full Review (4/23/07)
• Adam Platt's Full Review (2/20/06)

Featured In

• Where to Eat 2008 (1/7/08)
• Where to Eat 2008: Best Up-and-Coming Chefs (1/7/08)
• Ten Little Cities: The Romantics (8/13/07)
• Ask Gael: Gilt or Just Brass? (1/23/06)