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296 Fifth Ave.,
Brooklyn, NY 11215
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Mon-Thu, 11am-11pm; Fri, 11am-midnight; Sat, noon-midnight; Sun, noon-11pm
F, M, R at Fourth Ave.-9th St.; M, R at Union St.
$11-$34
American Express, MasterCard, Visa
Accepted/Not Necessary
Prospect Ave. to Flatbush Ave., Prospect Park West to Fourth Ave.
It’s a safe bet that the residents of Park Slope weren’t exactly pining for a Benihana knockoff. But now that they’ve got one, they might well wonder how they survived without it. Sure, there are plenty of sushi dens in the nabe, but there are few spots, even in Brooklyn, where you can watch a red-kerchiefed-and-toqued chef grill your favorite animal protein even as he performs complex knife tricks (“behind the back!”), sings phrases from your favorite pop tunes (“holla back!”) and jokingly implies that Japanese beef is actually, uh, feline (“meow!”). Super-fresh sushi and sashimi prevail here, along with a host of creative maki rolls. The warm interior, with flagstone floors, richly stained wood, shoji screens, and soothing slate-blue and exposed-brick walls suggest an inviting pagoda chic. But seeing your food cooked in front of you has a downside: The savory, toothsome richness comes from dollop after dollop of butter, which the chef affectionately calls “Japanese ice cream.”
Recommended DishesValentine roll, $12.95; hibachi New York strip steak, $23.95; sushi and sashimi combo, $24.95
Adam Platt picks 2011’s top dining destinations,
including Osteria Morini, ABC Kitchen, and M. Wells.
The best that the city’s restaurants have to offer:
grilled cheese, offal, breakfast taco, soba, and more.
We live in a city full of small cheap-eats miracles,
including meatballs, noodles, and food trucks.