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Think of Glady’s as a modern-­day Eisenberg’s, serving New Brooklyn Cuisine sandwiches to the hipster masses—only instead of a lime rickey, you’re sipping a barrel-aged Negroni. This nouvelle dinner-only luncheonette has counter stools, a pickle plate, vintage aqua Formica. There’s even a corned-beef Reuben, which here they call the Bubie and dress up with Raclette cheese and charred-­onion mustard. Where there used to be rotisserie chicken on a larger opening menu, there’s now a Pollos Hermanos sandwich, Buffalo’d with blue cheese and hot sauce. The incontestable star, though, is the Octo (temporarily on hiatus, but soon to rejoin the ever-changing roster, we hope): a slender length of sandwich roll toasted on the wood-fired grill, which is also put to consummate use on the tender cephalopod itself. Unexpected garnishes like tatsoi, chopped olives, and preserved lemon add flavor and texture, but it’s the creamy, mildly spicy po’boy sauce that puts it over the top. — Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite

Octo, $12

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