The “how’d they end up here?” Newtown Creek–side location, the atypically roomy layout, the quietly inventive melding of zesty Middle Eastern flavors with Über-seasonal produce — all these factors conspire to make Glasserie truly unique. It’s hard to categorize the cooking, but bowls both small and large tend to share a few distinguishing structural characteristics: a puddle of tangy sauce below, a smattering of bright herbs on top, and the dish’s featured ingredients shoved to one side in an artfully off-kilter arrangement. This formula applies equally and deliciously to hot grilled za’atar-spiced radishes over whipped feta; mini-torpedoes of lamb and bulgur “croquettes” (a.k.a. kibbeh, stuffed with mint and peas) submerged in nutty tahini; and sliced chicken breast, simultaneously moist and charred, in a puddle of beer-enriched almond milk. Both the parathalike “flaky bread” and the hot, za’atar-spiced flatbread are baked in-house and compulsory, especially in concert with rich, creamy labneh for dipping. Cocktails are shaken with conviction and priced to move. And the chocolate tart, topped with sesame whipped cream? Bittersweet perfection.