Gloria’s is a greatest-hits album of Trinidadian food. The friendly, low-frills restaurant humbly, and handily, crushes all of the classics, including pholourie (spongy, deep-fried orbs made from split-pea flour) dressed in chutney and saucy doubles, requiring a clutch of napkins. The roti fillings here extend to lesser-seen items, including duck, curried conch, soy chunks, and pumpkin paired with bhagee, or spiced potatoes. The stewed oxtails make for a fine dinner served atop a generous mound of rice and two sides — you can’t go wrong with fried okra and sautéed callaloo, a nutritious leafy green. For dessert, try the peanut punch, a sweetly milky concoction seasoned with nutmeg.