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Golden Café's modest facade all but hides it from easy view on the Manhattan Avenue strip, but it still manages to attract a mostly local customer base in a distinctly Polish district. Inside, polished golden walls frame a hodgepodge of homey curios in the front, while back room booth seating is darker and more intimate. In addition to blintzes, borscht soups, beef goulash, and plump pierogi bursting with meat and potatoes, the menu takes on flyover staples like chicken cordon bleu, hangar steak, baby back ribs and a timeless martini-glass shrimp cocktail. Salads are fresh, breaded tilapia is crunchy and juicy, and a tender veal cutlet in wine sauce is subtly spiced. The weekend brunch is a true marvel with incomparably modest prices. Try the smoked salmon platter, stocked with potato pancakes, capers, and a generous dollop of cream cheese — the perfect start to a drowsy Sunday afternoon.

— Patrick Coffee

Breaded Tilapia, $12