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Gottino

Critic's Pick Critics' Pick

52 Greenwich Ave., New York, NY 10014 40.735758 -74.000578
nr. Perry St.  See Map | Subway Directions Hopstop Popup
212-633-2590 Send to Phone

  • Cuisine: Italian
  • Price Range: $$

    Key to Prices and ratings

    Upscale
    • Almost Perfect
    • Exceptional
    • Generally Excellent
    • Very Good
    • Good
    Cheap Eats
    • Best in Category
    • Excellent
    • Delicious
    • Very Good
    • Noteworthy
    • Very Expensive
    • Expensive
    • Moderate
    • Cheap
  • Reader Rating:

    8 out of 10

      |  

    18 Reviews | Write a Review

Photo by Brian Kennedy

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Official Website

ilovegottino.com

Hours

Mon-Fri, 8am-2am; Sat-Sun, 11am-2am

Nearby Subway Stops

1 at Christopher St.-Sheridan Sq.

Prices

$4-$12

Payment Methods

American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa

Special Features

  • Bar Scene
  • Hot Spot
  • Late-Night Dining
  • Notable Chef
  • Reservations Not Required

Alcohol

  • Beer and Wine Only

Reservations

Not Accepted

Profile

The Underground Gourmet can’t blame Jody Williams for refusing to call Gottino a wine bar. After all, New York is practically awash in wine bars these days. So instead, the Morandi chef has christened her pet project, the elegant slip of a West Village space she opened with partner Michael Bull, a “gastroteca—my made-up word for an Italian gastropub,” she says. And when, precisely, is a wine bar not a wine bar, according to Williams? When great food, great wine, and thoughtful service add up to something much more than a cookie-cutter marketing plan.

At first glance, the casual observer might not be able to tell the difference. Gottino embodies rusticity, with all the Old World Wine Bar signifiers in place: the long marble bar and the standing ledge behind it, the Ferrari-red Berkel meat slicer, the piles of seasonal fruit (quince, pomegranates, blood oranges) that are a telltale Williams touch. Wine bottles, cookie jars, and anchovy tins line the walls; baskets of complimentary nuts are arranged along the bar for customers to crack open at will. But beyond the romantic “ ’teca” atmosphere is a terrific “gastro” restaurant, one that adapts the familiar small-plate wine-bar format to its own Slow Food–inspired, seasonally dictated, often idiosyncratic ends. If there’s a wine-bar playbook, and there must be by now, Gottino isn’t going by it.

Note

Gottino buys its gelati from Philadelphia’s acclaimed Capogiro; the fior di latte flavor comes with a sidecar of succulent candied chestnuts.

Ideal Meal

Bigné with Prosecco to start, followed by ciambottini, any crostini, blood-orange salad, canederli or cotechino-stuffed apples, and a bit of cheese. Or just make your way through a crock of chicken-liver pâté and call it a day.

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