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Undeterred by the ongoing gentrification of nearby neighborhoods, this laidback Dominican eatery dating back to the 1970s somehow continues to thrive without an upgrade. The owners haven’t updated the furnishings: the green linoleum floor’s cracked; a takeout counter lists daily specials via oily pieces of scotch-taped paper and a rarely edited white-erase board; three humming soda machines flank the door. To experience the best this place has to offer you’ll want to order the rotisserie chicken or the roast pork early in the evening or around noon just after the spits have stopped turning. Otherwise, you risk biting into dry chicken breast or tough, cold pork. If you miss prime time, don’t despair. There’s always the triumphant Cuban sandwich with a sweet and tangy guanabana fruit shake.

  — Laurel Fantauzzo

Half rotisserie chicken, $6.75; roast pork, $7.50; Cuban sandwich, $4.25; sour sop guanabana shake; $3