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The Colonie team’s second effort since their Brooklyn Heights hit is divided indoors into a bar area (where it’s possible to dine) and several smaller dining rooms, plus an expansive, gorgeous back garden. It’s worth ponying up $10 or more for a margarita or $11 for a michelada to sit on this plant-decked patio, strung with lights and impressively situated beneath the towering bulk of the Manhattan bridge. It’s probably even worth the $13 bowl of guacamole that isn’t big enough, well-seasoned enough, or sufficiently well presented to warrant the price; at least it comes with a selection of four salsas, including a creamy one made with sesame seeds and a flavorful yet not super spicy arbol chile rendition. The rest of the menu isn’t that high in price, but--save for a pair of delicious, crunchy fish tacos—it’s not that high in flavor, either. On a recent visit, gorditas seemed undersalted, as did pozole, while pickled vegetable escabeche was limp and muddy-hued rather than vibrant. The torta ahogada (a roast-pork sandwich drowning in a rich red sauce) can be had better at Williamsburg’s La Superior. And churros lacked the heat, softness, and crunch that makes them a favorite. — Jenny Miller

Reservations accepted for parties of eight or more

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