Grand Army embodies all of the ideals of a perfect neighborhood pub. There are the drinks, from co-owner Damon Boelte and bar director Kevin Baird, which change seasonally and always manage to be filled with all sorts of intriguingly esoteric ingredients (chile liqueur, Oloroso sherry, tequila, mezcal, and passion fruit all showed up in the Skies Full of Silver and Gold). And there is chef Kimberly Plafke’s raw bar, which overflows with crab legs, local oysters, and as many cocktail-sauced shrimp as you could ever want. The rest of the menu is filled with the kinds of steak tartares and fresh, vaguely healthful veggie dishes that a regular could happily eat multiple times a week. And speaking of frequent visits, the overall vibe is so comfortable and welcoming that it practically begs people to drop in anytime they’re within a ten-block radius — something you should make a point to do should you find yourself in a similarly proximal spot.