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Grand Harmony’s banquet hall serves two purposes, depending upon the hour: dim sum daily and private, lavish evening weddings. The dim sum is some of the best in Chinatown, with dumplings plumper and less greasy than those of nearby competitors. The requisites are here, from shumai to translucent-skinned har kow, along with combinations like a tasty ball of chive-speckled pork and shrimp. Stuffed noodles are an original, an improbable wrap of broad noodles around medallions of airy, baguette-ish bread. A limited lunch menu emphasizes soups and noodles. Beef chow fun, available moist or dry, carries an appealing tang, thanks to fermented black beans. The restaurant’s ample interior is posh by Chinatown standards, with gold seat covers that match a long golden landscape along the near wall. A raised area in the front of the room serves as a stage for evening wedding parties, beneath the auspicious gaze of a potent (male) dragon and a resplendent (female) phoenix. — Ethan Wolff

Early arrivals will find only a limited selection, as the carts aren’t in full circulation until around 11 a.m.

Dim sum, $2-$3.95 per dish; beef chow fun, $8.95