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Beneath the pressed-tin ceiling and Victorian-style chandeliers, a steady stream of regulars shuffles into the worn pews of this candlelit haven. Whether congregating with friends or cuddling up with a date, nocturnally inclined oenophiles can hold late-night sessions with quartos or bottles chosen from owner Mark McNulty’s rotating list. But it takes more than a fine glass of wine to become a neighborhood favorite: Delectable appetizers like the shiitake-mushroom tart perfumed with black-truffle oil and tuna carpaccio with a jalapeño-infused citrus vinaigrette pique the palate. Afterward, the homemade pizzas seal the deal. Six perfectly crisped squares of focaccia are painted with red sauce and embellished with savory toppings like goat-cheese crumbles and cured-black olives or meatballs with caramelized onions. More of a beer and pizza fan? No problem. Head next door to Against the Grain, McNulty’s slightly smaller tavern stocked with 50 or so craft beers. — Lauren Berger

Shiitake mushroom tart, $10; meatball and caramelized onion pizza, $12