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Happily far from haute, good old red-sauce Italian is alive and well at Graziella's. This homey restaurant has brick walls adorned with old WNEW posters and painted, pressed-tin ceilings. The owners resist red-checked-tablecloth kitsch and installed lighting that's warm but not squint-provokingly candlelit. Near the rear, a wood-burning pizza oven casts its own singular, soft glow. It's out of this that the busy pizzaiolo pulls tasty thin pies, the crust delivering a delicious tang that makes up for the rather bland cheese and sauce. The menu includes plenty of comfy favorites like lavishly cheesy stuffed shells and generously portioned veal marsala, as satisfying in the main dining room as they are on the roof deck. Graziella’s doesn’t promise revelation but delivers reliable, tasty sustenance, and that's just the way we like it. — JJ Goode

Grilled baby octopus, $11; pizza with arugula and Parmigiano, $22; orecchiette with broccoli rabe and sausage, $13