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With its devotion to organic ingredients, local family farms, and sustainable agriculture, The Green Table occupies a timely, ecologically correct niche amid the mad-cow hysteria. But the quaint, countrified wine bar and café—an annex of the Cleaver Company, with which it shares a Chelsea Market kitchen—is more than a marketing-savvy mission statement: Even the most high-minded food has to taste good, and Green bar owner Mary Cleaver’s does. She fortifies her small seasonal menu with daily specials like a spicy, rough purée of golden beets; triangles of soft, mildly pungent Timson cheese from Vermont Shepherd grace the "harvest salad" of North Fork greens, handicapped, alas, by lackluster dressing. Those greens, the menu proudly announces, come from Satur Farms, which also grows the sturdy kale that accompanied a lamb-chop special—a trio of tender medium-rare chops with truffle-scented mashed potatoes and multicolored baby carrots. — Robin Raisfeld

Sep.–May: Sun., noon–5 p.m.; Jun.–Aug.: no brunch