Profile

Many from New York's diverse ethnic communities rely on restaurants opened by their countrymen to provide the familiar flavors of home. Grey Dog in the West Village does the same for the coterie of those nostalgic for life in eastern college towns. It's rustic, with bare brick walls, weathered, hand-painted signs, ceiling fans, and colorful wood tables. The staff is young, idealistic and fresh-scrubbed, albeit with piercings and facial hair. This is Americana, though more of the Abbie Hoffman wrapped in an American flag sort than Brooks Brothers. There's a cooperative spirit in the air. Service is partially self, partially table. The house-blend coffee is strong; the muffins are substantial and homemade. The kitchen puts out the sort of honest food one would expect: sandwiches ranging from roasted turkey and brie to tuna melt to the grilled tofu burger, Cobb salad, burgers—beef and pulled pork—plus quiche served with a small salad. Brunch is Grey Dog's big meal. The eponymous Breakfast comes with eggs, pancakes or French toast, and meat. Of course there's also the standard array of omelets and bagels and lox, as well as homemade Granola, all well done. — Jamal Rayyis

Grey Dog's Breakfast, $11.95; grilled tofu wrap, $9.25