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The only place French expat and Greenpoint resident Timothée Spitzer could find an éclair to meet his exacting Gallic standards was Payard. But clumping up to the Upper East Side every time the urge for puff pastry struck was taking its toll. “I ended up not going,” he says. So Spitzer did what any civic-minded Frenchman would do and opened a bright and cheerful café on his own Brooklyn turf.  Niçoise salad, quiche Lorraine, and tartes flambées  round out the menu. “We have more recipes,” says Spitzer, “but I’m very picky, I’m very difficult, and I’m never satisfied.” — Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite

Three-course lunch, $9; Three-course weekend brunch, $14