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Taking its name from the mythological lion-headed, eagle-winged monster—in Grifone's narrow and low-lit dining room are statues and paintings depicting the restaurant's namesake—this cozy Northern Italian restaurant flies below the radar. It could certainly be a destination restaurant, but it seems to want to be the kind of secret only impeccably dressed diplomats and Tudor City locals know about. The place is all about sauces, with many dishes reflecting the restaurant's regional roots with wine or butter-and-lemon sauces. A thin glaze of seasoned white wine sauce adds a sharply intense flavor to the large slabs of swordfish, while the tomato and cream sauces do more than just complement the various pastas, they add a finely calibrated sweetness. Entrees and sides are presented simply, without garnish, each on its own plate, as if to separate and accentuate each taste. It's hard to imagine many people stumble across Grifone, or travel far out of their way to get there, but, for those with a little extra to spend, it is well worth the trip. — David S. Hirschman

Grilled swordfish, $32