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This venue is closed.

A split personality defines this spot near Grand Central. Its original Moroccan owners perfected a menu of Middle Eastern standards; new Indian proprietors have added expertly prepared meat and veg staples. That makes patrons twice as lucky, since it’s hard to go wrong with either. Hummus, baba ghannouj, and falafel are rich and lively; chana masala, chicken vindaloo, and lamb curry are bold and well-seasoned, with thick and pillowy naan as a bonus. Because food here moves so fast – it seems like hundreds of deliveries fly out the door daily – components always taste fresh. Prices are fair across the board, but the best deal is a $13.95 Indian dinner platter with appetizer, entrée, dessert, rice, naan, and raita. Just don’t expect glam surroundings. Despite its bistro-like name, Grill 44 is a lunch counter, with just four stools at a stainless-steel counter on both sides of the cramped room, which becomes an unpleasant mob scene at lunchtime. You’ll do best with takeout or delivery. — Michael Kaminer

Chicken vindaloo, $11.95; falafel platter, $8.95; dinner special, $13.95