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For those eager to try the legendary pizza but too impatient for the lines on Old Fulton Street, your destination is this onetime church, then nightclub, and now shopping center on Sixth Avenue. Like the original in Dumbo, the menu at Grimaldi's Limelight is short, the tablecloths are red-checkered, and the oven is coal-burning. The rules are the same too: no slices, no reservations, and no credit cards. The only difference, seemingly, is the number of minutes spent waiting for a table and number of celebrity photographs on the wall (fewer here in both cases). Unfortunately, Grimaldi pies presently have a hard time competing with the best of New York, as their fresh mozzarella and signature sauce can only take it so far. Your best bet would be a regular pie with sausage or a white pie, eaten quickly before the end crusts become cardboard-stiff. — Jeff Orlick

Small white pie, $15