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A lot of baklava seems like it’s been practically pickled in syrup and then drenched in honey. Not so at Güllüoğlu, the American branch of a venerable Turkish chain. The relatively posh bakery and café imports all its confections from the home branch in Gaziantep, the pistachio capital of Turkey. As you might expect, then, pistachios play a crucial role in Güllüoğlu’s repertoire, from the emerald-green single-phyllo-layered baklava to the nut-speckled kadayif, a crunchy square of shredded phyllo extolled by no less an authority than Sip Sak chef-owner Orhan Yegen, who tipped us off to the place. Güllüoğlu’s pastries are sweet but not cloyingly so; even better might be the su böregi, a golden-crusted, multilayered noodle pudding of sorts riddled with cheese or spinach and traditionally eaten for breakfast. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

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