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This venue is closed.

Just off Flushing Chinatown's bustling main drag, the colorful and colossal Gum Fung is big enough to be a movie theater, and even requires a headset-equipped director to manage the flow of human traffic. The garish dining room contains a sea of tables amidst walls emblazoned with golden dragons, lit by glittering, violet-bordered chandeliers. There’s a typical menu of Cantonese and Hong Kong-style dishes, but the draw here is dim sum. Waitresses push tiered metal carts between the tables, calling out in Chinese to advertise their wares: crisp bacon wrapped around pleasantly spongy seafood balls, outstanding fresh steamed and baked roast pork buns; and chewy braised beef tripe with turnips. White orbs of steamed dough contain yellow custard as silky and rich as egg yolk. Steamed in lotus leaves, pork- and sausage-studded sticky rice is packed dense with flavor. Some dishes, like batter-fried tiny fish and salt-baked squid would be excellent fresh out of the fryer but arrive cold after their journey around the room. Rice noodle-wrapped fried bread can be glorious—or leaden, if it's served tepid. To avoid disappointment, watch for steam rising in scented clouds from bamboo baskets filled with shu mai—shrimp-and-pork dumplings—or from a sizzling wok holding heaps of small clams in black bean sauce. — JJ Goode

Daily, 9 a.m.—4 p.m.

Sticky rice in lotus leaf, $2.95; steamed custard bun, $1.95; seafood bacon roll, $4.95; steamed shu mai, $2.50