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After the demise of his beloved institution circa 2004, Gus Theodoro returns with a reincarnated taverna. Open floor-to-ceiling windows, a brilliant-blue awning, and white-washed walls trigger visions of a postcard-perfect Greek isle, an image further clarified by the owner's framed family photos. A bar facing the room's wood tables and terra-cotta-colored leather booths fits just a few stools but doesn't skimp on its wines, most of which hail from Greece. Shelves proudly display fig jam, honey made at a Crete monastery, kalamata olives, and other Hellenic products for sale. Such authentic ingredients find their way into the Mediterranean menu, too, which favors fish and, above all, mezedes, small plates so delectable that you'll want to build a meal around them. The classic beet salad deftly combines toasted pine nuts with slightly sour feta, crisp endive, and a tangy chive vinaigrette. For the ultimate in comfort food, there's a clay pot of braised chicken on a bed of fruit-accented polenta. Sweetly invigorating. — Kate Appleton

Clay potted chicken, $19