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It’s not easy being green, but Argentinean owner Alberto Gonzalez has managed to make his stylish chain concept into New York’s first USDA-certified organic restaurant. Not to be confused with the sleek Italian Gusto on Greenwich Avenue, this cafeteria-by-day and bistro by night evokes a South American eco-lodge. Wood for the rough-hewn tables was recovered from defunct barns, and leather-encased lights (made from “cows that were already dead”) hang in coconut formations from the sky-lit ceiling. Gusto also uses wind-power; the soy ink–printed menu is made with recycled paper (as is the TP), and takeout utensils are forged out of corn. Robust south-of-the-border-inspired dishes hold up to the contemplative surroundings. Steak sandwiches emphasize smoky filet mignon; fresh-baked breads range from plump empanadas to alfajores, flaky biscuits smeared with dulce de leche. Candles and ambient music ease the transition into a cozy restaurant come sundown. — AnneLise Sorensen

Fugazzeta empanada, $5