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Algerian Habib Belkadi has had a place in the East Village since 1992—it just keeps moving. The third incarnation, opened in 2008, will be happily familiar to Habib’s many fans. It’s another hole-in-the-wall operation, where Habib mans the revolving spits behind a counter and makes small talk while meticulously preparing orders. The excellent sharwama, with crisp marinated chicken and fresh toppings like tomato, onion, and cucumber, is stuffed into a warm wheat pita. Hot sauce wonderfully enhanced with paprika and harissa accents the lamb gyro platter: Succulent spit-roasted cuts of lamb dribbled with tahini and paired with baba ghanooj and light hummus. Pride of place (and the highest prices) goes to the homemade couscous presented in ceramic tagines. Jazz often plays, and photos of greats like Charlie Parker, Louis Armstrong, and Thelonious Monk hang in the back, which has just enough room for some chrome and black stools. A fridge stocks sodas but no alcohol. — Kate Appleton

Chicken shawarma, $6, lamb gyro platter, $9.50